Although quince, apricot, William’s pear and even raspberry rakija have become a hit in recent years, šljivovica (plum) remains an evergreen
According to documents written in the 5th century, ancient Slavs used to drink mead wine and mead brandy and brought the habit to the Balkans when they settled here in the 7th century. Exactly when rakija production started is not known, but we do know that it was practiced during emperor Dušan’s reign. Under Dušan’s Code (1354) penalties were prescribed for alcohol abuse.
We in Serbia believe that rakija cures many diseases and that it’s beneficial to our health. A shot of rakija before breakfast is recommended to improve blood circulation. Are the medicinal benefits of rakija old wives’ tales, or the real deal?
Rakija has been used in Serbia in diets, as a medicine and for pleasure. There is scientific proof that alcohol in moderation causes blood vessel dilation, which improves circulation and benefits the whole body. When herb rakijas are consumed, beneficial chemical compounds contained in the herbs can be ingested.
What are the trends in rakija production and marketing in Serbia? Where does the future of Serbian rakija lie?
There’s been an expansion in the production of fruit brandies, such as apricot, William’s pear and quince rakija in the past fifteen years, and lately of raspberry rakija. However, šljivovica, plum rakija, is an evergreen, an authentic beverage of Serbia as a rakija-producing country. With the emergence of new plum sorts, the range of plum rakija has also become wider.
Which parameters are used to determine the quality of a rakija? How can we tell the difference between a good and a bad one?
Rakija is produced by fermenting 100% fruit ‒ no sugar is added ‒ and distilling the fermented fruit pomace. A rakija cannot have a more intense aroma than the fruit from which it was produced. This is because we constantly lose aromatic compounds during fermentation and distillation. The same goes for the intensity of taste. In bars and restaurants, alcoholic beverages with various aromas are often sold as rakija. This is effectively cheating because customers have paid for a product they don’t get.
The price is also important. On average, you need 10 to 15 kilos of fruit, depending on which fruit is used, to produce a litre of rakija. So, for example, the average price of quince is 45 dinars/kg, you need 15 kilos of quince for 1 litre of rakija, which means that the raw material alone costs over 650 dinars, not counting other production costs and the producer’s profit.
Unfortunately, we in Serbia drink brandies of very poor quality. This is due to inadequate education and the indifference of brandy producers. It is sad that with all the available knowledge and university level education in this type of production, our private producers are still slaves to traditionally bad habits and do not use science
To what extent can a good Serbian rakija compete with French cognac or Scotch whisky? Can they even be compared?
Plum rakija produced from brandy plum cultivars, such as our native požegača, crvena ranka or trnošljiva, ripened and kept in appropriate oak barrels, is neck-and-neck with French cognac or calvados. Whisky is a different category of beverage. It’s produced from grains, the raw material is different and simpler. After five years of ageing in an oak barrel, a complex of aromatic compounds formed in šljivovica gives the beverage a new note, which we refer to as ‘bouquet’. Šljivovica can be left to age for over 25 years, and if you tasted that drink you wouldn’t know which is better: the cognac or the šljivovica.
Rakija in Serbia is produced in rural households and by big companies. Each region has its own tradition and characteristic rakija. How can we consolidate production and marketing to improve rakija’s position on the market?
Each rural household in Serbia has its own type of rakija, and everybody thinks that theirs is the best. The beauty lies in the fact that every region in Serbia has a specific microclimate which directly influences the fruit quality and consequently the quality of the rakija. It is important to know when and what to do. So, only ripe fruit of good quality should be used, with no leaves, twigs or stones. In other words, what you wouldn’t put in your mouth, you shouldn’t put in the barrel.
The hygiene of the fermentation and distillation vessels should be the best possible. It is also important that the distillation start immediately after fermentation, often no later than ten to twenty days after putting the fruit in the barrel, depending on which fruit was used and on the temperature at which it was fermented.
Unfortunately, home distillers in Serbia ferment the pomace when they have time for it, which is often as late as spring. This is wrong, because as soon as the fermentation is over the acetic acid fermentation takes over. It reduces the alcohol content in the pomace and creates organic compounds that spoil the quality of the rakija. When the disintegration of the pomace starts, the conditions for making rotgut are created.
New legislation has made it possible for registered producers and private individuals to cooperate legally with one another, which I believe will help raise the overall quality of rakija on the Serbian market. Today, all registered producers either have or collaborate with experts in this area and use all available know-how and modern technologies. This guarantees top quality and continued production.
There are many cases of entire villages producing soft rakija as a semi-finished product for registered producers, increasing the production capacity and the potential marketing of the rakija as a finished product.
Serbia is recognised for its šljivovica – it is one of the brands of our region. What other types of brandy could we export?
All rakija fruit brandies produced in Serbia are different from similar types of brandy produced abroad. First, the fruit quality that we use in rakija production is exceptional – it’s mostly Class 1 or Class 2. Second, double distillation gives our rakija a different, recognisable note. We could increase the export of many of our rakija, but I think I’d prioritise quince and raspberry, as fruit rakija delicacies.
When, how much and with what food do you recommend taking a shot of rakija?
I would always recommend colourless fruit rakijas before a meal, as an aperitif, slightly chilled, up to 10°C. Rakijas that have aged in oak barrels, šljivovica, quince, apple and grape rakija, should be taken as a digestive, with cake or coffee, and always at room temperature. Rakija should be consumed in moderation, a shot or two, and what they give as noble alcoholic beverages should be enjoyed.